In Jacobs' extensive Resort 2009 collection, we saw a bevy of experiments in shape color and proportion. The collection started with an incredibly strong coat with a large bow in black along the neck. It was all about the love. Mr. Jacobs used a heart motif in many of the 38 looks. Victoria Beckham even wore one of the heart dresses at the CFDA Award Monday night. Jacobs worked immensely on this pant that created a feminine yet strong and tough look. It was reminded me of the Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2008 collection, and yet I saw a lot of the Spring 2007 collection by Jacobs. I saw Arabian Nights meets Studio 54. His use of colors like eggplant and gold, as well as an amazing trouser made his collections THE collection to look for in stores. I'm excited to see how the man you brought us such a calm tranquil, modern collection for fall, will grow on this idea for Spring in September.
A court in Manhattan ruled in favor of the mediocre semi-luxury brand Dooney and Bourke, in the four-year trademark dispute with Louis Vuitton. The"It Bag" by Bourke was in the words of Judge Sheindlin, does not infringe on Vuitton's Monograme Multicolore handbag collection. Although LVMH, the luxury conglomerate that owns Vuitton, is right in trying to protect their designs, I think the french company has taken these infringement cases way too far. The bags Dooney and Bourke are hideous and unsightly, but they are an established business that is not taking costumers away from Vuitton, it is an obvious fact, suburban pre-teens cannot afford real Vuitton. If anything Bourke is taking costumers away from illegally smuggled counterfeit handbags.
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This is sort of late, but it's just so sad that Yves Saint Laurent has left us. What a legend. His place in the fashion chronicles is irreplaceable. He gave us so much, and I for one cannot wait to see Stefano Pilati's next collection for the house. His fall was number one on WWD's top shows, and with the death of Mr. Saint Laurent will only inspire Pilati to move forward to take a retrospective, respectful approach to the the Spring 2009 collection.
Monday night was the CFDA Awards in Manhattan and for the most part everything was fair and somewhat predictable. Franco Costa won Women's Wear Designer of the Year, for his work at Calvin Klein, and new-comers at Rodarte and Opening Ceremony won The Swarovski Awards for emerging talent in their fields. The one award I couldn't wrap my head around was the recipient on the Accessory Designer of the Year, Tory Burch. I mean, sure, she makes the perfect flat for the JAPy girl in all of us, her riding boots are one of the only acceptable replacement for the Hermes boots, and her bags look just right on the pretentious Palm Beach old women, but really Designer of the Year? All she did was slap a gold "T" medallion on her ordinary accessories and make them the uniform of New Yorker wannabes and the fashionista off-spring who haven't yet convinced daddy to buy Lanvin or Louboutin. I just feel like there are so many other, more deserving, designers that should've received this honor. I mean, she doesn't even need the award, she will get enough money from her upcoming divorce from the venture capitalist who funded the launch of the company. I'm just saying, there were better choices.
Although the 40th anniversary of The Summer of Love was last year, Anna Sui's resort collection screamed peace, love, and rock and roll. Sui, the only true rocker among the New York designers, created a collection that was incredibly cohesive and wearable (unlike her fall 08 collection). The line featured tie-die frocks along with tunics in earth brocades. It was simple and easy to wear. It was youth, free, and nostalgic of an era not-so-different than the one we live in now.
In typical Versace fashion, Donatella Versace created a resort collection that was everything we have come to expect of the italian brand; over-the-top glamour and a love of all things shiny. The collection featured a few knockout looks, it was all about being tan and blonde. Ms. Versace created a line that was strong and sexy. The day looks featured skinny pants, trenches, and casual jackets. For evening, it was all about the cocktail dress. Using pleats and folds, Versace was able to concoct another quintessentially Versace collection. I think Ms. Versace has finally found her place and the brand's place in the fashion community. Versace is back in the game, and creating clothes for women who are not afraid of too much glamour and just want to have fun.
For Karl Lagerfeld's second collection of the season, he decided to go 70's. This collection, of 16 looks, was simple, wearable, and for the first time in a few seasons, chic. I was not a fan of Lagerfeld's last two collections for the Italian brand, so when I saw this collection I was enthralled and ecstatic. Whether you like his collections or not, you cannot deny that Lagerfeld has incredible skill and craftsmanship beneath the sleeves of his signature Dior by Hedi Slimane suits. He showed a few particularly convivial cocktail dresses featuring great tailoring and magnificent use of technological fabrics. I especially liked the first dress (above), it was Mary Tyler Moore meets Molly Ringwald. There were some great day looks as well, no one does a short-short Like Karl. He went back to the fun, whimsical, girlie, days much like S/S 2007, that was a great show!
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